Remembrance Hearts

Sue Hanson's Method for Mark Myers "Remembrance Heart"

If you have difficulty following the instructions on Mark Myers' Web Site (listed on the Links page) please try Sue Hanson's method given here.

MATERIALS

• Ball (purple) and Shuttle (yellow)
  
• Size 20 thread or three strands of embroidery floss.

ABBREVIATIONS

• RW = RW
  
• DNRW = do not reverse work
  
• R = Ring
  
• p = picot
  
• sm p = small picot (merely a "blip" for joining)
  
• SLT = shoe lace trick

1. Knot together the two threads using a reef knot (left over right, then right over left) leaving short tails. Each of these "tails" I hide within the first few stitches (yellow in the first ring & purple in the chain) so that the tail runs alongside the "core". Just tuck in the short tail after the flip is made. I just use the tip of my Bates shuttle to "poke" it through, half stitch by half stitch for about 3 ds.

2. Commence as close to the knot as possible.

3. Ring 1: 5ds, p, 2ds, p, 2ds, p, 2ds, p, 2ds, sm p (for joining) 2ds, close ring, DNRW

4. Ring 2: 2ds, join (to last p of last R) 3ds, p, 3ds, sm p, 2ds, close ring, DNRW

5. Ring 3: 2ds, join (to last p of last R) 3ds, p, 3ds, sm p, 2ds, close ring, DNRW

6. Ring 4: 2ds, join (to last p of last R) 2ds, p, 2ds, p, 2ds, p, 2ds, p, 5ds, close ring, RW

7. Ch: 2ds, sm p, 2ds, sm p, (2ds, p) x 18, 2ds. You will have made 20 ds altogether. While working slide up each pair of ds to close the picot - not too tight but "comfy" like. When you've finished the chain tension by gently sliding the stitches back while holding the chain gently between the "flat pinch" of finger & thumb.

   Check the length of this chain by holding it in position. If you think it's too short add more repeats - too long reduce them. Patterns are not written in stone.

8. Make a lock join (AKA shuttle join) to the centre picot of the first small ring by putting hook down through the picot and picking up the "core" thread (AKA shuttle thread). Post shuttle through this loop, from back to front but don't close it yet!

9. Place the join in the "flat pinch" and pull gently on the left hand side of the loop until you meet resistance. This will ensure you've "snugged up" the join to the last stitch of the chain.

10. Now pull on the shuttle thread (not by the shuttle but close to the work for more control) to close, all the while keep the pinch over the work. Ensure you pull at 90 degrees to make a really neat join (if you pull at an angle the join will appear lopsided).

11. Time to change the position of the threads by making the Shoe Lace Trick (SLT). Keeping the ball thread wrapped around the left hand make a "half hitch" & pulling evenly on both ball & shuttle while at the same time reversing the work. I make mine by working the 2nd movement (over the top of the thread) & reversing the work. Take a look the work has turned upside down and future stitches made will have the tops of the stitches at the other side.

    To learn the Shoe Lace Trick please visit the lesson on the Shoe lace trick by Wally Sosa which can be found on Georgia Seitz's class, or the Shoe lace trick lesson by La Rae on Picotnet.

12. Ch: 5 ds, RW

13. Ring 5: 8ds, close ring, RW

14. Ch: 5. "Snug up" chain to match the length of the last chain (again between the "flat pinch").

15. Repeat the SLT to put the threads into position for the last chain & RW.

16. Repeat the lock join into the lower ring of the butterfly.

17. Ch: (2ds, p) x 18 (or whatever number of decorative picots you made on the first side) 2ds, join (to 2nd picot of first chain).

18. Now this is a tricky bit.

    • Fold up the motif, still holding the last stitch worked between the "flat pinch" & leaving the ball thread wrapped around the left hand.

    • Make sure that both shuttle and ball threads are behind the motif.

    • Bring the picot to be joined to be above the last stitch worked and poke hook down through picot & grab the ball thread (like a normal join) pull up loop & post through shuttle from front to back.

    • Check that the core thread still runs free and work the 2nd half ds, then 1 more ds to make the two ds required.

19. Now I always count the join as the first half of the following ds. This is open to debate. Some people don't count it and work a full stitch after. It's a matter of personal opinion.

20. Now repeat the normal join into the last picot, and whichever way you choose to make the 2 ds (either counting the join or not).

21. Cut leaving about 2-inch tails. Now the finishing:

    • Pull the core thread (yellow) from front to the back through the start at the first ring of the butterfly. Have the ball thread (purple) tail between the two chains, again coming through to the back.

    • Now tension the chain in the flat pinch by pulling gently on the "core" thread. Do a quick check to see if the length matches the first side by folding the motif in half. Adjust accordingly.

22. Time to knot off. For such a small motif I don't bother hiding the ends.

23. Do the first half of a reef knot and pull tight then make the second half but don't close yet.

24. Put a little "blob" of PVA glue between the knot and then close it. Hold between pinch to get rid of the excess glue.

25. Trim off the tails close.

Et voila - cest fini. Now sit back and admire your work!

Well I hope this makes sense and gets you tatting.

Happy tats :-)

Love, light & peace

Sue Hanson, South East London, UK
NATA #056